Nothing gets your house looking nicer than a fresh coat of paint, but how do you make sure your paint will keep looking great for years to come?

Easy.  Just follow these simple – but very important – tips to painting your house properly.  You’ll be left with a great looking home that shines for years!

Step 1: Inspect The Exterior Of Your Home

This is a fundamental, and often overlooked, step.  Before you start painting your house, it’s very important to take a good look at the exterior for signs of wear and tear, like water damage, mildew or mold, and popped nails.

Step 2: Repair Any Issues Seen In Initial Inspection

Once you’ve reviewed the exterior of your house, it’s time to take action!  Remember, if you don’t fix the issues that you see now, a new coat of paint will only mask them temporarily – water damage, mold and other issues will continue to rear their ugly heads until they’ve been fully fixed.

Step 3: Clean The Exterior Of Your Home

Now that you’ve thoroughly inspected the outside of your home, it’s time to clean everything and get ready for the painting!

You can approach the cleaning of your home in a variety of ways.  For smaller homes, a simple hose can suffice.  For areas where there is pretty heavy dirt, you can use a scrub brush and soapy water.

For larger homes, you’ll need a bit of extra power to get the job done efficiently, so we’d recommend a power washer.

If your inspection turned up any mildew, a mixture of bleach and water will deal with that efficiently.

Step 4: Remove Obstacles

The exterior of the home has many obstacles that can get in the way of painting.  For instance: mailboxes, street address numbers, light fixtures and shutters all should be removed prior to beginning the painting.

In addition to the above, keep an eye out for trees scraping up against your home or greenery that could get in the way of painting.  Prune or cover any problem trees.

Step 5: Choose Your Primer

Now that your home is ready for painting, it’s time to choose your primer.  Primer is a very important step in the painting of your home – many DIY’ers neglect it, leading to an unsatisfying final look.

Think of Primer as the “glue” that holds the paint to your home.  Without it, your paint job can run into real problems!

 

Step 6: Choose Your Paint

Finally, it’s time to choose your paint.  First off, make sure your paint is designed for exterior use.  You’ll have two options: latex and oil-based paint.  Latex tends to be the easiest for the DIY’er – it

‘s easy to clean up, and stands up to the elements well.  Oil-based paints also stand up to the elements well, but have an issue with how they’re applied – the paint never completely dries, and is prone to issues like curing.

Not sure how long your paint job should last?

Step 7: You’re All Set!

You’ve now taken all of the steps for the perfect exterior painting.  Your last step is to paint away!

Thanks so much for reading.

If your interested in knowing how much does it cost to paint a house, you may request a free quote below.

 

roof 2Siding is a big part of the overall look of your house, and if you’re in the market for a siding contractor, you need to ensure:
a) You’re properly educated on the types of siding available to you, and what the different choices mean in terms of maintenance and longevity.

b) That you choose a contractor who will help fully explain your options, and will execute your work at the highest level.

In this article, we wanted to give you a few handy guidelines on what to look for in a siding contractor.

1. Look for a siding contractor with a wide range of experience:

When it comes to siding, experience really is key.  You need a contractor who has a broad history with many different types of siding, so that when they advise you on the implications of each type, you know that they’re not trying to sell you on their strengths, but instead making sure you have the best siding for your needs.

For instance, wood siding is an attractive option to some, but buyers must be aware that they will need to be scraping and re-painting every 4 to 7 years.  If you’re planning on updating the colors of your home at some point in the future, then you’ll definitely need to stay away from vinyl, which can’t be painted.

2. Make sure the scope of work is clearly defined:

As with all things, it’s important to make sure you and your contractor know EXACTLY what your expectations are before you start, to avoid any issues down the line.

Take the time to communicate with your contractor and make sure you’re completely on the same page in terms of the scope of the work.  Be sure that you’re fully comfortable before agreeing to begin the work.

3. Try to look at other work the contractor has done in the past:

Nothing speaks more clearly about the quality of a contractor’s work than prior examples.  Ask your contractor for sites that he or she has worked on previously.  Once they provide them, go ahead and take a look at a few in your area.  If the workmanship looks strong, then you’re in good shape!

If your contractor refuses to provide local examples, this should be a big alarm bell – either they don’t have much experience, or they’re intentionally not wanting you to see the final results of their work!

4. Understand the warranty on the work:

This ties in with point #2, but it’s important to make sure that you’re fully aware of the warranty on the work, as it may vary from contractor to contractor.  Make sure you’re fully comfortable with the warranty before proceeding.

With these handy tips, you’ll have a smooth experience installing your siding!

I recently read an article on Energy Conservatory.com, that asked the question: Are Your Houses Too Tight? Written By Gary Nelson, Robert Nevitt and Gary Anderson.

I wanted to reflect on questions that I’ve been asked from dozens of homeowners over the past few years, as well as take a closer look at the questions the authors proposed. They asked a question that I’ve heard time and time again.  Are new houses being built too tight?Reflecting on older construction techniques, the authors comment “it used to be that builders rarely worried about the air tightness level of the houses they built. Standard construction practices would typically produce a house that generated few if any callback complaints related to air tightness such as moisture on windows or stale odors. By leaving houses with a significant level of air leakage, builders were actually incorporating a passive ventilation system into every house they built. In addition, the lower efficiency natural draft combustion appliances routinely installed in new houses acted like exhaust fans drawing large quantities of outside air into the house. This passive ventilation system was crude, uncontrollable, and created some comfort complaints, but it did satisfy the ventilation needs of most of the houses built more than two decades ago.”  In other words, houses were built “loose” enough that they could breath.The question that then presents itself is, “Am I losing money on heating and cooling bills if my house is built loosely?”The authors write “The air tightness of the building envelope is an important key to understanding the performance of any new house. Uncontrolled air leakage can result in high fuel bills, failure of building components, and increased builder callbacks. As a result, more and more time is being spent by the building trades sealing up new houses in an effort to reduce problems associated with air leakage. Yet at the same time, most builders are continuing to rely on uncontrolled air leakage through holes and cracks in the building envelope to provide adequate ventilation for the occupants.”What is making newer houses so “tight?”The authors state that “over the past 20 years, building practices have changed. The advent of the 1973 oil crisis created the first large demand for more energy efficient houses. Increasing insulation levels was the first response to this new energy conscious market. As the cost of energy has continued to increase, other industry responses developed as well. Most notably, building products and construction practices have been developed and adopted which reduce the overall size of air leaks in the building envelope. In fact, many builders are now building much tighter houses without even realizing it. Walk down any new development under construction and it is common to see the use of housewraps, tight fitting exterior sheathings, vapor barriers, and untold caulks, foams and sealants. While 10 years ago, many of these air tightening products where used by only a few custom builders, they are now an integral part of standard new construction practice. Much detail and time are now spent installing continuous vapor barriers, sealing penetrations in the exterior envelope with specially designed foam, and adding gaskets at outlets and plumbing chases.”   I would agree, and add that many building codes are being updated to match some of these practices. Additionally, consider these other comments, “In cold climates a better understanding that attic moisture and ice dams problems are caused by warm air leaking into attic spaces has led builders to do a better job sealing attic penetrations. New higher efficiency combustion appliances being installed use much less air for combustion and as a result significantly reduce the amount of outside air being drawn into the house. Add to this the new tighter window technologies and it is no wonder why the average house being built today is significantly tighter than its counterpart of 20 or 30 years ago.”   I also agree.

But what about all of the information in newspapers, magazines and on the internet warning about problems with air quality, odors, mold, and mildew, etc.? Unchecked, a tightly sealed house can present a flurry of problems, such as range hoods and clothes dryers creating negative pressures in houses large enough to backdraft furnaces, water heaters or fireplaces. The concern then becomes that this can introduce carbon monoxide and other deadly gases directly into the house. Stoves and ranges can also present a problem. The author states “While not all of the thousands of carbon monoxide poisonings each year can be attributed to tight buildings, it is clear that tight houses are increasingly susceptible to this problem.”

Final Thoughts: The authors present a solid case that relying on passive ventilation is not recommended, and that builders and homeowners should have their designs put to the test, the blower door test that is. (see http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/energy_audits/index.cfm/mytopic=11190 )I agree with that if ventilation is properly planned and accounted for, that we can continue to find ways to tighten up houses, but within reason.  I think that there is a point of no return when it comes to investing time,energy and money in siding, windows, roofing and other parts of a building’s envelope.  Properly planned, a good balance can be achieved.   Other Recommendations from the cited article: for New Construction

  • Have a blower door test done on one of your typical houses
  • Avoid natural-draft combustion appliances
  • Warn your customers about the dangers of open fireplaces.
  • Try to minimize sources of indoor pollutants

X--Pictures-Pete M Photos-Marketing-Web-Website-Hubpsot Images-Blog photos-Simonton windowsHere is an excerpt from the Simonton Windows Sept 2010 Green Report.  This article makes some compelling points about how high quality vinyl replacement windows are very eco-friendly.  Read and decide for yourself.

“Windows can be appraised using each of the three green themes just mentioned: Product toxicity, thermal envelope integrity, and life-cycle analysis, and they deserve nothing less than very close scrutiny. That’s because windows are a key part of any green-building strategy for the thermal envelope and building shell, perhaps the key part, given that just replacing windows with energy efficient models can reduce household energy costs by 15%. After all, you go to the trouble of building a high-integrity thermal envelope – sealing it fully with taped housewrap and polybutylene flashing – only to punch gaping holes in it to accommodate windows and doors. So, you’d better have one heck of a window and door product to insert in those rough openings.

What window product comes back with strong performance in all these performance areas(and please add in low-maintenance too), while consistently garnering accolades from third-party green raters? One product consistently scores high in every assessment category and it’s vinyl windows. What’s more, of all your vinyl window choices, one manufacturer continues to deliver highest-in-class results in every performance category…and that’s Simonton Windows. Close examination in any life-cycle analysis will reveal that vinyl scores at the top of the class of green raw materials. All of Simonton Windows’ scrap vinyl is recycled and blended back into a mixture to produce window and door components, and the rigid vinyl of its windows minimally offgases or exudes chemicals.”

Because we are in the home improvement business we often forget how much we know about our services and how little many homeowners know. I recently had a question from a roofing customer that I thought was interesting.  She asked, “how come some ridge vents are installed all the way to the edge of the roof while others are not?”  See the ridge vent photo below to see what she meant.

2 ridge vents

 

The answer is strictly one of aesthetics.  The venting in the roof should never be cut all the way to the edge but that doesn’t mean you can’t install the vent cap all the way to the edge.  We cut the vent in the roof decking (sheathing) to within a foot or 2 of the edge and always install Shingle Vent 2 right to the edge because most people think it’s a cleaner look.

If you are considering a roofing, siding or window or painting project we always provide a free, no-pressure estimate.  Request one here.

 

Many people are unaware of all the window styles available to homeowners.  Read a description of each below as well as a Typical Application.

Window Styles

OutlineNameDescriptionTypical Applications
awning
AwningWindows that are hinged at the top that swing out for ventilation.Bathrooms, Combine w/Large windows
single- or double-hung
Single/Double HungA window with two sashes where one or both sashes slide vertically.Bedrooms, Family Rooms, Kitchens, Dens
Horizontal Slider or Rolling window
Horizontal Slider or Rolling windowA window with two sashes where one or both sashes slide horizontally.Bedrooms, Family Rooms, Kitchens, Dens, Combinations
Casement
CasementA window or windows hinged on one side that open as far as 90 degrees to the building using a crank.Bathrooms, Bedrooms, Living Rooms, Combine w/Large windows
Direct-Set
Direct-Set GeometricsThese are fixed windows. Since they have no moving parts, they can be tailored to meet just about any desired geometric shape.Entry Ways, Living Rooms, Combine w/Large windows
Circle Top
Circle TopAs the name describes, these windows typically have a flat bottom and a circular or arched top. These are typically used in combination with another window or door.Entry Ways, Living Rooms, Combine with doors or large windows

 

Examples of Combinations

OutlineNameDescription
Angled Bay
Angled BayA single large, fixed center window with 2 windows at 30, 45, or 90 degrees to the building. Side windows are typically vertical sliders or casement.
Bow
BowFour or more windows configured to form a radius. Typically made of either vertical sliders or casement windows.
Picture Combination
Picture CombinationA single large, fixed center window with 2 adjacent side windows. Side windows may be either horizontal or vertical sliders or casement.
2-Wide
2-WideTwo vertical slider windows installed side-by-side. This is a basic building block for a “wall of windows”.
3-Wide with transoms
3-Wide with transomsThree vertical slider windows installed side-by-side with awnings or fixed transoms across the tops.
2-Wide with transom
2-Wide with transomTwo casement windows installed side-by-side with an awning or fixed transom across the tops.
Cathedral
CathedralTwo casement windows with a half cloverleaf top circle
Three wide with awnings
Three wide with awningsThree fixed windows with awnings on the bottom.

By now you’ve heard about the Federal Tax Credit for 30%

off energy efficient improvements for up to $1500.  The question is do you know how to maximize it?

Here is a quick check list to help you make sure you do not miss out on the tax credit for windows and doors:

  • Does the window or door being installed qualify for the tax credit?
  • Can the installer order the materials before December 31st 2010?
  • Are there any other incentives from the manufacturer or dealer/installer?

1. Does the window or door qualify for the tax credit?

Be careful, In many cases you’ll find the answer is NO. Verify that the the U-factor and SHGC is less than or equal to .30. In other cases you’ll find the manufacturer has used easy and low-quality measures to increase the insulating value of the window or door in order to get it to a point of meeting the federal standards for U-value and SHGC. Such methods include filling air space with foam, adding extra layers of dark Low-E, and adding cheap weatherstripping.  An excellent question to ask the dealer or installer is “Did the product being installed meet the Tax Credit qualifications before the qualifications even existed?” Obtain a detailed scope of work for the products being used, and ask how you can receive verification from the manufacturer of their products compliance with the Tax Credit standards.

2.  Can the installer order the materials before December 31st 2010

We anticipate a unprecedented volume of window orders over the final 4 months of 2010.  This means many companies’ installation capacity will be overwhelmed and order will get overlooked.  Make sure you have verification that the windows or doors will be ordered before December 31st.

3.  Are there any other incentives from the manufacturer or dealer / installer?

Since many of the large manufacturers are trying to cash in on the rush of window and door orders, they are passing on additional incentives to the dealers, contractors, and installers.  Make sure you understand all the discounts that are available and when they expire.  As always, make sure any details discussed are in writing.

These 3 things should help you maximize your tax credit.  Feel free to contact us here with any specific questions.

location_epdmWhen it comes to roof leaks in New England, flatter roofs generally have more problems.  Flatter roofs on areas such as porches, dormers, additions, and commercial buildings deal with slower drainage, more water pooling, and more wind-driven rain issues.  All of these can lead to roof leakage and serious damage.

We are constantly asked by home and business owners, what we recommend for lower slope roofs in our service area (Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Southern New  Hampshire).  The answer is almost exclusively EPDM Rubber Roofing systems such as those made by RPI® or Genflex®.  EPDM is designed not to easily deteriorate.  It withstands damage from ozone, UV, heat, frost, and other environmental factors that typically have a damaging effect on flat roof products such as rolled asphalt, tar, and sheet metal.

Besides being very resistant to the elements, the major benefit of rubber roofing is the ability to minimize seams.  EPDM comes in various different sizes that can be installed on all types of roof surfaces.  Wherever seams are necessary, as long as they are properly sealed, they will perform as good as the rest of the membrane.

If you are having issues with a low-pitch roof area, or are concerned about it Contact Us to give you a no pressure estimate.

Check out our Rubber Roofing Section for more info about our low-slope roofing systems.

Hopkinton MA Sign According to Money Magazine the small town of Hopkinton, MA is one of the top 100 places to live  in the United States. Hopkinton is an area we complete a whole lot of projects. Hopkinton is a  neighboring town of Ashland where our office is located.  Over the years we’ve met hundreds of  home and business owners in Hopkinton and had the privilege of completing various projects of  all scales.  Most famous as the starting spot for the Boston Marathon, Hopkinton is a quiet, but  accessible community nicely located near the junction of 495 and the Mass Pike. Some notable  projects United has had the privilege to work on are roof replacement and painting at the Korean  Presbyterian Church (formerly First Congregational Church of Hopkinton) right across from the Hopkinton Common and Marathon starting line. We’ve recently installed dozens of new windows at the old High School building on Main Street near the top of the hill.

roof_knowledge_09Commission wind, hail and ice add up to about 32% of the insurance claims made by    homeowners.  This number is especially staggering since many sections of the U.S. don’t    see frequent hail storms, and other sections don’t have climates that produce ice dams.      Add another 14.3% for water damage and it’s clear that a majority of home insurance        claims are caused by weather and climate factors.

 

 

Property Peril
Fire 33.1%
Wind Damage 18.3%
Water Damage 14.3%
Hail Damage 11.6%
Theft 3.6%
Freezing 2.0%
Lightning 2.0%
Other Property Losses 9.6%

The most commonly damaged areas of homes are the roof, siding, foundation, windows, and gutters.  As you would expect the exterior shell of your home is the first layer of protection against the elements.  When the strength of Mother Nature overpowers the durability of your home everyone loses.  You have to pay expensive insurance premiums and rarely get the proper amount of coverage to restore your home to proper working condition.

It’s more important then ever to have the following:

A properly functioning roofing system with hurricane force wind nailing, sufficient amounts of ice and water shield and flashing, and high grade shingles properly installed.

Well maintained and properly installed siding that is wind resistant and durable enough to take the impact of flying debris.

Windows that have a high DP rating, meaning they can withstand the force of high winds and the impact of debris.